Channel Your Inner Couture
Last week, Paris hosted ‘Couture Fashion Week’ and it seems as if Couture has a new customer. Haute Couture is no longer about being unwearable and avant-garde, it is now aimed at the woman who has a ‘21st century lifestyle’ as Paula Reed of Grazia said this week. Paula rightly pointed out that couture pieces are now expected to be packable instead of having their own seat on a private jet!
This notion was clearly exemplified over the last week with the likes of Chanel and Armani completely toning down their couture taste, nevertheless Dior’s and Givenchy’s collections maintained extravagance and drama. However the unlikely couture hero of last week for me was Stephane Rolland; his concoction of cinched waists, leather and draped, floor-sweeping gowns mesmerised me.
Chanel’s shows are always a showcase, thanks to the lead of Karl Lagerfield. This Chanel show had the iceberg winter wonderland to live up to from last March and Karl definitely created something to rival it. A lion’s head took centre stage last week clutching a large pearl from which the models made their entrance. The lion is supposed to be a reference to Coco Chanel’s star sign and also showed Karl’s humour (the last model also wore a lion mask). The collection that was showcased was an array of coats, dresses and capes all smothered in embellishment and glitter, which channelled a very distinct Prussian influence. Fantastic coats had cuffs and pockets that were saturated in lashings of embroidery and sequins. However Chanel couture this season was much more toned down with the toffee and honey hues Karl has used, however still had the wow factor.
Armani’s couture collection was too very demure for Couture; Giorgio was clearly aiming his pieces at the new couture customer. He eased tailoring to soft lines and flowing silhouettes with coats shrugged on the shoulders over draped shift dresses, even a tight crocodile blazer was teamed with wide trousers. However the finale of the mermaid dresses was simply spectacular and although the overall collection softened the notion of power dressing, hints of haute couture remained.
Givenchy’s pieces were inspired by gothic elements and florals intertwined. The pieces consisted of lace skeletal dresses heavily hand embroidered with ostrich feather’s, fringing, fur, hand woven lace and flowers, which overall gave a 3D effect. The final dress consisted of gold metallic embellishment and was very reminiscent of Lara Stone’s wedding dress. Givenchy’s collection oozed romanticism (thing Florence Welch) and although modern still captivated the essence of one off.
Dior’s collection is what I consider to be Couture, it was dramatic, extravagant and avant-garde. There was an array of gorgeous colour pairings; pink/violet, black/yellow, indigo/lime and sumptuous textures of chiffon, tulle and mohair… it was a fantastic fashion bloom. Galliano’s collection was inspired clearly by florals, in particular irises, roses, lilies and African violets which was such a breath of fresh air compared to the other tertiary based collections. Galliano played with structure too featuring billowing frilled skirts, floor-sweeping gowns with cinched waists and fantastic frilled collars and hems. J’adore Dior’s Couture… it is for me how couture should be.
My award for the best couture nevertheless is surprisingly not for an ultra famous designer but for Stephane Rolland’s collection. His eclectic choice of caped, waist-cinched coats, flowing gowns and use of electric blue was for me the most modern of the collections whilst still maintaining that element of couture. My favourite pieces were the blue caped coat teamed with leather gloves and the electric blue floor length gown. Simply sensational.
It is all well and good eyeing up the couture and attempting to channel it yourself, however you either need to be a seamstress extraordinaire or able to spend a small fortune in order to own your own piece. I advise that in order to own that one off piece either befriend a top designer OR take a look at these websites. Although from high street brands, these links show their more unique pieces and whilst you save up for your own piece of Dior/Chanel/ Givenchy you can own your very own piece of high street couture!
ASOS BLACK (http://www.asos.com/Women/A-To-Z-Of-Brands/Asos-Black/Cat/pgecategory.aspx?cid=7339)
TOPSHOP UNIQUE (http://www.topshop.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?catalogId=19551&storeId=12556&categoryId=58914&langId=-1&top=Y)
Images via www.Vogue.co.uk
Post by Aimee












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